Motovun – “Think of it as Tuscany 50 years ago”
Nestled in the heart of Istria, Croatia, Motovun is a place that seems almost untouched by time. As The New York Times put it, “Think of it as Tuscany 50 years ago.”1 This medieval town, perched on a hilltop and surrounded by endless vineyards and forests, is a dreamscape for those who seek charm, authenticity, and an escape from the urban rush.
I visited Motovun at the end of April, as spring unfolded in all its beauty, and instantly fell in love with this charming little town. It looked as if it had come straight out of a fairytale book. If you ever get the chance to see it, I want to share with you why it’s a place that lingers in the heart.
How to reach Motovun?
Best way is to rent a car.
- 1 hour and 40 min from Ljubljana (toll tax )
- 2h 50 min from Zagreb
- 3h from Plitvice Lakes National Park
The Dolce Far Niente Escape
Motovun isn’t just a place you visit—it’s a place where you embrace the art of dolce far niente, the sweetness of doing nothing. Here, there is no need for itineraries or checklists; it is enough to simply be, to soak in the magic of this medieval hilltop town and the surrounding region. Whether you are gazing at the rolling hills, sipping on a glass of local wine, or indulging in a plate of truffle-infused pasta, time slows down in Motovun, and you begin to understand that being present is the greatest experience of all.
A Taste of Istria
Food in Motovun is an experience of its own. Truffles reign supreme, found in nearly every dish, from creamy pastas to rich risottos. The local wines—Malvasia and Teran—are the perfect complement to the region’s flavors. Those seeking a special dining experience should visit Konoba Mondo for its rustic charm and exquisite dishes, or Bistro Bar Montona Gallery for a meal accompanied by a spectacular view (and perhaps a few friendly cats).
Restaurants
- KONOBA MONDO – the best food I tasted in Motovun
- Bistro Bar Montona Gallery – very good service, tasty food and lovely view and atmosphere
- Pod Napun – the food was okay, the wine great but the view…
The Magic of Misty Mornings
Make sure to wake up very early at least once while you are there, grab your camera and take a walk through the narrow, cobblestone streets of Motovun.
One of Motovun’s most enchanting sights is the early morning fog that blankets the valley, creating a fairytale-like setting. As the sun rises and slowly dissolves the mist, the town reveals itself in golden light. After the morning spectacle, sit down and enjoy a cup of coffee at Cafe Bar Mure, where you can also meet Veli Jože, the legendary giant of Istrian folklore.
Best Coffee Breaks and Drinks
Exploring the region
The surrounding Istrian region offers plenty to discover. You can visit local wineries, where you can tour the vineyards and sample the region’s wines. And why not go for a truffle hunting? For those wanting to feel the sea breeze, the beautiful coastal town of Poreč is just a short drive away, with its charming streets and stunning views of the Adriatic.
Seaside cities
- Poreč
- Rovin
Truffle hunting
A Place That Stays With You
Motovun can be explored as a standalone destination or as part of a longer journey through Istria and beyond. No matter how you visit, it will always linger in your heart. For me Motovun was the perfect piece of the puzzle in our seven days itinerary through Slovenia and Croatia.